Camino de Cuatro Sierras
In the heart of Sierra Nevada, guiding a group on a gravel cycling odyssey with Cycle Sierra Nevada, the thrill lies in the challenge, and the reward is the untamed beauty of Southern Spain.
Our journey begins under a reluctant drizzle, a rarity in this sun-soaked land. The Camino de Cuatro Sierras awaits, promising both adventure and uncertainty. As we pedal through the rain-drenched roads, the skies miraculously clear, urging us onward.
Leaving behind the safety of well-paved roads, we venture onto single tracks towards the village of Lagos. Gravel presents its own set of challenges, but it adds a dash of thrill to the ride. The trail leads us to Lujar, a resilient white village nestled beneath a mountain of the same name. Here, we indulge in a tostada stop, relishing a simple yet satisfying three-piece sandwich with locally grown produce.
The village of Lujar in the distance (credit Luka Furjan)
The ascent to Puerto Camacho and the Sierra de la Contraviesa at 1280 meters is demanding, a tradition in these parts. Along the ridge, we navigate a descent to El Cortijo del Medico, a charming B&B surrounded by almonds and vineyards. Warmly welcomed by Tove and Kristian, we savor homemade banana cake and coffee, rejuvenating for the journey ahead.
Our bed for the night is found in Alqueria Morayma, where, as Tyler Durden said, "babies don’t sleep this well."
As day two dawns, the persistent rain challenges our spirits. Yet, trust in Andalucia's sun prevails. Climbing through mud, greeted by barking dogs, we persevere. Gravel rides unfold with surprising terrain variations, from 24% muddy trails to pristine pavement seen only in hybrid car commercials.
The descent into Laroles, navigating a dry riverbed, marks the day's challenges. A final climb leads us to our resting place, clouds lingering but a sense of accomplishment prevailing.
Under the everloving sun, we tackle the Puerto de la Ragua, relishing smoother gravel. Bushes yield to pine trees, dry riverbeds to mountain streams. Trevelez, the famous jamón town, awaits, offering incredible vistas and a quiet birthday celebration.
Between Trevelez and Capileira (credit Luka Furjan)
Day four unfolds with climbs to Capileira, punctuated by a hike and bike section. Comparisons to Stelvio emerge, affirming the strength gained in conquering these terrains. The reward? A spectacular descent to Niguelas and a tranquil night in a traditional Moor house.
The final leg to Sierra Guajar is met with anticipation. Steep sections challenge our "coffee legs," but the promise of breathtaking views spurs us on. Sierra Tejeda, Costa Tropical, and Costa del Sol unfold, a reward for the struggle.
Gravel road above Guajar Alto (credit Luka Furjan)
A long descent into Guajar Alto concludes our journey, the last tostadas marking the end. Leaving the warmth of familiar homes is always tough, but this gravel adventure has opened a new chapter in the seemingly familiar landscapes of Sierra Nevada. Riding five days on gravel wasn't just about the kilometres; it was about breathing life into forgotten towns and discovering new stories in these idyllic villages.
Words and images by Luka Furjan
Check out the route here